The Costa Rei - Sardinia’s Quieter Alternative
If you are looking for a new Italian seaside holiday destination, you should consider the Costa Rei in southern Sardinia, about 60 km north east of Cagliari and 15km from Villasimius. From Villasimius, the coast road to Costa Rei climbs through steep hairpins offering beautiful views to sea.
Less pricey and less crowded than Costa Smeralda, in the northeast, Costa Rei nonetheless has lots to offer, including long stretches of beautiful white-sand beaches fronting clean, crystal-clear waters, and pretty coves backed by typical Mediterranean vegetation. There are also impressive cliffs and inlets featuring distinctive granite blocks.
At each end of the 8-km long beach are headlands backed by pine and juniper covered hills. The bays of Sant’Elmo in the south, and the long beaches of Capo Ferrato in the north, act as natural boundaries. Popular beaches include Cala Pira, with its rocky reefs, and Porto Pirastu, with its surrounding pine forest. There are also lakes that are protected by a nature reserve for rare bird species. Visible offshore are the islands of Serpentara and Di Cavoli.
Roads to the ruins
But there’s more to Costa Rei than its beaches. Venture to the nearby Castiadas and view the Punic remains of Monte Nai dating from 5th century BC, and the megalithic complex of Piscina Rei, with its 22 stone menhirs standing in their original, vertical position, dating back to the late Neolithic period. At the end of pretty Santa Giusta Beach is a large granite rock called Peppino’s Rock, marking the southern-most point of Costa Rei. From here you can enjoy panoramic views of the sea and coastal settlements.
Take the road to Teulada from Cagliari, and you’ll come across the ancient Phoenician ruins of Nora, 3km from Pula. With the foundations of the ‘Tanit’ temple, some fortifications, and parts of a foundry remaining, the Nora ruins are fascinating, and include plentiful remains of subsequent Roman occupation. The Roman age theatre dates back to the Trajan epoch, as do three thermal baths, a forum, and the remains of many exquisite mosaics.
Water sports include surfing and scuba diving, and windsurfing is possible in the frequent windy conditions. There’s plenty for kids to do, including pony rides and lessons at the riding school, and boat trips from Arbatax to Cala. And if you are looking for a quiet holiday, without the worry of car hire and driving, Costa Rei has lots of boutique shopping and excellent dining opportunities in Muravera or in Cagliari, within walking distance. At Capo Ferrato is an excellent bar/pizzeria, which offers delicious chicken dishes as well as panini and several pizza options.
Summer evenings can be family oriented, with carousel and paddleboat rides for kids, while the nightlife consists of beachfront dining, in one of the many restaurants featuring the tasty Sardinian cuisine, and tasting local wines in one of the many bars. A great place to stay, in the centre of Costa Rei, is the Hotel Albaruja, which has self-contained, air-conditioned rooms, with sweeping coastal views. There is a pool and tennis court, and nearby you’ll find restaurants, various shops, and, of course, the beach.
Article by Rodney Ritchie
Rod Ritchie, a travel writer and editor, writes for many publishers including AA Publishing and Fodors. Cottages to Castles offer a range of high quality rental villas in Sardinia. Visit Cottages to Castles for a selection of privately owned Sardinia villas.
